What's in your sunscreen?

Now the summer months are almost here, many of us reach to the back of the cupboard for last years’ sunscreen to take care of our skin, and quickly realise it’s probably been there a bit too long!

Most of us have a favourite brand, or an enjoy the satisfaction of a deal on price – we’re creatures of habit when it comes to buying toiletries. But if you need to update your suncare products, how do you choose the best overall product whilst avoiding too many chemicals in the formulations?

Chemical substances are widely used in sunscreen formulations to protect our skin from burning due to exposure UVA and UVB rays – and they’re mostly very effective. But with so many products available to choose from, are there any ingredients worth giving a miss? 

Oxybenzone (OBZ) is a widely used ingredient in sunscreens UV face and body creams, and some cosmetic products to stabilise formulations. Oxybenzone originates from carbon which absorbs UV rays, so it’s easy to see why this is a popular ingredient. In sunscreens, oxybenzone acts like an organic filter that absorbs and converts UVB and UVA rays into less harmful forms of energy such as heat.

Although its use in sunscreens is tightly regulated, and the maximum concentration permitted in the UK and EU is 6% in sunscreens and .05% in cosmetic products it’s still a chemical that raises concerns because it’s a suspected endocrine disruptor. It’s also worth being aware of ‘chemical layering’ – this can happen when using multiple products together, all with permitted concentration ingredient levels, but when they’re combined it can unknowingly increase your overall level exposure to chemicals.

Oxybenzone is metabolised by the body and excreted in urine and stools. Although it’s quite easy to avoid, it’s still creating extra work for your body, and not everyone will break it down and excrete it as easily when exposed (we detox at different rates).

So if there’s any doubt, you can check your exposure to oxybenzone by taking the new Everyday Chemicals test. The test screens a single urine sample for the metabolite of oxybenzone (and 26 other chemicals) to identify exposure to this chemical, and tell you how your score compares to the wider population.

For example, a high score would suggest that you’ve been exposed to this chemical, and that your body is less efficient at excreting it. But don’t worry, we’ll share guidance on how to reduce your exposure to any of the chemicals detected in your urine sample, with easy to follow guidance to follow, one step at a time, without overwhelming you with lots of new information.

Are there any health concerns about oxybenzone? 

Oxybenzone and it’s alternate chemical name benzophenone, is a suspected endocrine disrupting chemical due to the growing body of evidence suggesting they might have harmful oestrogenic and potentially carcinogenic effects on human health. While the evidence is still inconclusive and further research is needed, there is enough concern to prompt a recent review of the safe level of benzophenone concentrations in sunscreens. 

In 2021 the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that a 6% concentration of benzophenone in sunscreen products is not safe for the consumer, but consider it safe at this amount in face and hand creams, and lipsticks. It recommended a maximum concentration of 2.2% in sunscreens, including the .5% often used to stabilise ingredients. 

Benzophenone has been detected in maternal urine, placental and amniotic samples suggesting exposure during pregnancy and a possible link to infant health. One study found a relationship between exposure to benzophenone (BP) during pregnancy and lower birth weight outcomes.  In animal studies, exposure to benzophenone has been linked with increased breast cancer and in laboratory studies with sperm health. Oxybenzone is potentially toxic to aquatic life and adverse environmental impacts have been reported. 

 

Mineral based sunscreen alternatives  

Often referred to as sunblocks, mineral based sunscreens create a barrier against the sun, preventing UV rays from penetrating the skin, and reflect it instead. They work immediately after application to reduce the effects of sun exposure on skin because they are not absorbed by skin. Zinc oxide is commonly used in mineral based sunscreen. It is a white, powdery mineral that can help block harmful UV rays from the skin and prevent sunburn. Zinc oxide is sometimes used in conjunction with titanium dioxide, but zinc oxide is thought to give better sun protection. Some products combine both ingredients, so check the label to be sure. 

When used as a sunscreen mineral sunblocks can leave a white, chalky layer on the skin, although added colorants can lessen this effect. When this is no longer visible, it’s time to reapply the sunscreen, usually every two hours.  

Help with choosing a sunscreen 

Choosing a sunscreen usually starts by deciding the level of sun protection, or SPF required. For example, an SPF 30 product provides 30 times more protection than using no sunscreen. But a closer examination of the ingredients list is also useful if you’d like to avoid chemicals such as oxybenzone. 

To help choose a sunscreen, one of our team recently scanned a wide range of sunscreens using the YUKA app and found it really useful. She discovered that some brands use oxybenzone in their ingredients, which the YUKA app rates as “BAD” with a score of zero because of health concerns raised by the scientific community.

When using the app, click onto the ingredients list, and you’ll see details of all the chemical ingredients used in thousands of everyday products, and any health risks associated with exposure to them. It’s free to download and really helpful if you’d like to reduce your contact with chemicals used in everyday products such as sunscreen. 

• Look out for oxybenzone and its alternate name benzophenone, as well as octocrylene which has similar properties and potential health risks. Avoid when possible.
  
• Check expiry dates on sunscreens at home – most will last for up to 3 years if they’ve been stored correctly, but if in doubt, replace them.
  
• When travelling, be mindful that permitted concentrations of oxybenzone vary in different countries such as the US. To be certain, take sunscreen with you, and pack enough to last for the duration of your trip. 
• When applying sunscreen, make sure you use enough to cover your body. Most people don’t use enough according to NHS guidance. 
• If you choose a mineral based sunscreen you’ll need to apply more. Use two teaspoons of mineral for your face, neck, and arms, and up to two tablespoons for your whole body, depending on your size.  

 

More reading 

• Boots offer helpful guides to sun protection and recommendations for mineral and chemical sun protection products.   
• Good Housekeeping product testing of mineral sunscreens. 

  

Image credit: Rido

Disclaimer: 

The information on our website should not be used as an alternative or substitute to medical advice from your doctor or other professional healthcare provider. If you have any specific questions about any medical matter, you should consult your doctor or other professional healthcare provider. Lastinghealth.com is not responsible for the content of external websites. The inclusion of a link to a third-party website should not be understood as an endorsement.